The summer squashes are in fine fettle. A greengrocer in my neck of the woods had wooden crates of them this week: deep glossy greens and canary yellows; the palest green and cream, and fat enough for stuffing; not to mention some (for once) sensibly sized marrows; round “tondo” squashes the size of tennis balls, and patty pans as pretty as boiled sweets.
When they arrive in perfect condition, not a scratch to be seen, I like to slice them, thinly, like coins, then cook them over a low heat for five minutes tops, with olive oil, torn mint or crushed basil and then at the last minute just enough white wine vinegar to cause a splutter. I tip them on to a plate then return the pan to the heat, add a slice of butter, a squashed clove of garlic and a handful of soft fresh breadcrumbs, which I fry until they are crisp enough to rustle.
I toss the crumbs over the courgettes then tumble them on to plates with folds of fat-rimmed prosciutto. Gorgonzola and white peaches to follow. Lunch sorted.
As they get up to their mid-summer sprint, courgettes end up grated or peeled into pappardelle-like ribbons; tossed into warm tarts of crab or prawns and stewed slowly with earthy cumin and turmeric and spinach, the same way that in autumn I shall probably cook pumpkins.
Courgette and crab tart
If you have two baking sheets or pizza stones, place one in the oven as you set the temperature. This is to help crisp the base.
Serves 6
courgettes 2, large (about 500g total weight)
fine sea salt 1 tbsp
puff pastry 325g
eggs 2
double cream 150ml
ricotta 250g
crab meat 225g, mixed white and brown
plain flour 2 tbsp
basil leaves 12
parmesan 10g, grated
You will need a 24cm x 30cm baking sheet, lined with a sheet of baking parchment.
Coarsely grate the courgettes (I use the coarse grater disc attachment of my food processor). Put the grated courgettes into a mixing bowl, sprinkle with the salt and leave for 45 minutes.
Roll the pastry into a rectangle measuring 24cm x 30cm, then lift on to the parchment-lined baking sheet. Taking care not to cut through to the baking sheet, score a rim on each side of the pastry, 2cm from the edge. Rest the pastry in the fridge for 25 minutes. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6.
Bake the pastry, placing the baking sheet on top of the preheated baking sheet or pizza stone, for about 12 minutes until lightly crisp and gold in colour. Remove from the oven, then, using the back of a large spoon, press the inner rectangle of pastry all over so it collapses, leaving a raised rim of pastry all round.
In a large mixing bowl, lightly beat the eggs, then pour in the double cream. Add the ricotta and a little seasoning and mix thoroughly, then fold in the crab meat and flour. Tear or shred the basil leaves then add them to the mixture together with a grinding of black pepper. Salt isn’t necessary.
Gently but firmly squeeze the water from the courgettes, then fold them into the crab custard. Transfer the mixture to the pastry shell, spreading inside the rim of pastry. Dust the grated parmesan over the surface and bake for 30 minutes or until puffed and golden. Rest for 10 minutes before slicing and serving.
Spiced courgettes
Summer squashes, courgettes and marrow will easily take the warm, earthy notes of cumin and turmeric. Little bursts of refreshing green flesh among the spicy sauce. The recipe here takes advantage of this, offering a frugal and delicious dinner with either rice or warm puffs of flatbread.
Serves 4, with rice or flatbread
onions 3, medium
groundnut or vegetable oil 3 tbsp
yellow mustard seeds 2 tsp
ground turmeric 2 tsp
ground cumin 2 tsp
hot ground cayenne ½ tsp
cherry tomatoes 350g
round summer squash or courgettes 600g
spinach with stalks 350g
chickpeas 1 x 400g can
water 200ml
Peel the onions, halve them, then cut each half into 3 or 4 segments. Warm the oil in a large, heavy-based casserole, add the yellow mustard seeds and cook for 1 minute then, as they start to pop, stir in the onions, turmeric, cumin and cayenne and lower the heat. Cook for 15 minutes, partially covering the pan with a lid and stirring occasionally.
When the onions are golden and fragrant, halve the cherry tomatoes, add them to the onions and leave to cook until soft. Cut the squash into thick segments, or courgettes into thick slices, roughly the length of a wine cork. Fold them into the onions and tomatoes, together with 200ml of water and bring to the boil. Leave the stew simmering for 15 minutes.
Wash the spinach and remove the toughest of the stalks. Put the wet leaves into a nonstick pan with a lid and cook them for a minute or two over a moderate heat, letting the leaves steam and relax. Remove them from the pan then cool immediately under cold running water and drain.
Drain and rinse the chickpeas and stir them into the onions. Continue cooking, stirring from time to time, until the courgettes are translucent and tender. Check the seasoning – you may want to add salt. Squeeze as much water as possible from the spinach then fold into the courgettes gently and without crushing them.
Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @NigelSlater
